Mauritius

Mauritius sits east of Madagascar: one main island ringed by reef, with a hilly interior and a coast that changes colour every few kilometres. Port Louis is a harbour capital of central market and streets that mix Creole, Indian, Chinese and French on the same plate. From here cheap buses run the coast, or you climb inland to reserves, Chamarel and Le Morne.

In the south-west wait Le Morne Brabant — a cliff bound up with the story of escaped slaves — and the bird reserve of Île aux Aigrettes. The north is gentler on the reef; inland there is tea, local viewpoints and lagoons seen from above. Rodrigues, another island of the republic, is farther and slower for anyone with spare days and a domestic flight.

The island can look expensive at first glance, but backpackers manage with buses, guesthouses outside the resorts and street food. Protect the reef: do not stand on coral, do not take sand or shells, and give turtle paths space. In cyclone season the sea turns quickly — check weather before boat hops and keep a spare day to leave.