Western Sahara

Western Sahara is a vast meeting of desert and ocean—and a disputed territory, not simply another country on an itinerary. Most residents live west of the Berm in the Moroccan-administered area, including Laayoune and Dakhla; territory east of it is controlled by the Polisario Front. Sahrawi people, identity and the unresolved conflict are inseparable from any honest account of the place.

Along the Atlantic, cliffs, lagoons, dunes and powerful wind create a starkly beautiful coast. Dakhla is known for its lagoon, kitesurfing, wind sports and the sharp collision of sand and water. Inland distances are enormous, services sparse, and some areas contain landmines or unexploded ordnance. The militarised Berm is not an adventure attraction and must never be approached.

Responsible travellers do not erase politics for a sunset photograph. Read varied sources, listen to Sahrawi voices, avoid presenting disputed borders as settled fact and consider where your spending goes. Access and security change, with official advice against all travel in substantial areas. This page provides context; it is not a green light to travel.